Tomato Fertilizer
Tomato fertilizer with a fruit-weighted 3.6-3-5.1 NPK, kelp, and a full micronutrient package — made to carry tomatoes from transplant through a long fruiting season in beds, containers, and grow bags. Nitrogen builds the vine early, higher potash sets and ripens the clusters, and unusually high calcium heads off the blossom end rot that ruins the first ripe fruit.
How to Use Tomato Fertilizer
| Method | Amount | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Watering can — plants under 12" | 1 Tbs (15 mL) per gallon of water | Once weekly through the growing season |
| Watering can — large or fruiting plants | 2 Tbs (30 mL) per gallon of water | Once weekly through the growing season |
| Hose end sprayer | Set dial to the feedrate above | Once weekly |
| Leaf misting (optional) | 1 tsp per quart (32 oz) of water | Every 1–2 weeks |
Mix into your normal watering — no separate feeding routine needed.
What's Inside
The 3.6-3-5.1 ratio (3.6% nitrogen, 3% phosphate, 5.1% potash) follows how a tomato spends its season: nitrogen builds the vine and leaf canopy early, then potash — the heaviest number on the label — takes over to set, fill, and ripen fruit. Every bit of the nitrogen is nitrate nitrogen, the form roots absorb directly, so plants respond fast without the salt stress urea-heavy formulas bring to containers and grow bags.
Beyond NPK: sea kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) for natural growth compounds, plus unusually high calcium (2.1%) and magnesium (0.75%), with iron, manganese, zinc, boron, and copper. Calcium and magnesium are the two tomatoes run short of first — short calcium shows up as blossom end rot on the fruit, short magnesium as older leaves yellowing between green veins while the plant carries a heavy set.
Made For
Every tomato: beefsteak, cherry, grape, Roma and paste types, heirlooms like Brandywine and Cherokee Purple, and compact patio varieties — in raised beds, in-ground rows, containers, and grow bags.
Problems It Solves
- Blossom end rot — sunken dark patches on the bottom of ripening fruit
- Older leaves yellowing between the veins under a heavy fruit load
- Vigorous vines with few flowers and small, slow-ripening fruit
- Transplants that sit for weeks instead of taking off
FAQs
How often should I feed my tomato plants?
Once weekly through the growing season. Use 1 Tbs per gallon of water while plants are under 12 inches, then move to 2 Tbs per gallon once they're large or fruiting. Container and grow-bag tomatoes exhaust their potting mix fastest, so weekly feeding matters most there — a hose end sprayer set to the same rates covers full rows.
Does this prevent blossom end rot?
It helps. Blossom end rot is a calcium shortage at the fruit, and this formula carries unusually high calcium (2.1%) — but roots only move calcium in evenly moist soil, so irregular watering causes it even when calcium is plentiful. Feed weekly, mulch, and water on a schedule; fruit that sets after you fix both usually comes in clean. Affected tomatoes don't recover.
Why is my tomato plant all vine and no tomatoes?
Too much nitrogen relative to potash and phosphorus is the classic nutritional cause — this formula's potash-forward ratio is built to avoid it. Beyond nutrition, tomatoes drop blossoms in heat above roughly 90°F and won't set well in shade; give them the sunniest spot you have and let the weekly feeding supply the rest.
Is it safe to use on food crops?
Yes — it's a mineral fertilizer derived from kelp and standard plant nutrient salts, made for edible gardens. You can feed right up through harvest with no waiting period. Rinse tomatoes before eating as you normally would, especially if you've been leaf misting.
When will I see results?
Transplants green up and start moving within 1–2 weeks of weekly feeding. Fruit response shows over the next cluster: more flowers that hold, then heavier, better-filled fruit. Tomatoes already on the vine won't resize much — the following set shows the difference, and a starved plant keeps improving through the season.
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